Pyrolysis sounds really cool in theory but in practice it’s wasteful, produces lower quality fuel that is harder to refine, and contains a ton of benzene.

There’s a dude on youtube making one of these in his backyard, basically a speed run to turn his house into a superfund site. I have no idea how people can see burnt plastic as a “green” alternative.

I feel like even calling this a ring is an insult to actual jewelry

Good news! This ring also comes in fuchsia pink with piss yellow sapphires:

it’s real and if it didn’t already look dystopian enough, everything is oil themed for some fucking reason.

I believe it was built for the world cup but wasn’t finished in time, yet another $200+ million wasted in the desert.

Snakes don’t suffocate prey by stopping their breathing, they stop the blood flow to the brain. A retic can kill a person without even trying, that much muscle around your neck might leave you a few seconds before you’re unconscious.

Using a headphone in production =/= a good headphone.

Cans for mixing have a compleptly different sound signature than for music enjoyment. Unless you just love trebble, stuff like beyerdynamic and m50x are atrocious sounding.

They are a resolving headphone for sure, and very well built. They’re not a bad headphone per-se but for normal folks they really need to stop being recommended so much.

Stuff like the Philips shp9500 and akg K371 are way more enjoyable, cheaper, and still pretty much indestructible. But the true advice is that audio is subjective as fuck, try out some stuff and find what you like. Trust your ears, not some dude on the Internet

If you have an amp: Modhouse Argons. The Fostex t50rp is built like a tank, and while it’s not the most resolving planar in the world the sound signature is just a ton of fun. I’ve had various t50rp mods for 15+ years, none of them have broken and the argons are in my top 3 of all time. But they really do drink about 1 watt per channel, so if you’re not already in the deep end, just avoid jumping in altogether.

No amp: KSC75/porta pros are pretty bassy, they just lack sub bass. Plenty of impact though, and for most music it’s all you really need. Pick youself up an $10 apple dongle (apple sucks but their dongle dac is legitimately a great value) and you have about 90% of what an audiophile spent thousands to achieve.

Another no-amp option could be Monoproce retro headphones. It’s sort of like an akg 240 clone but fully closed. The stock pads are terrible, but with some xl leather pads they become very comfortable and super bassy. The pads and cans are like $25 each; it’s a pretty unbeatable value. But they are also a bit of a one trick pony, if you’re looking to daily drive something the akg K371 would be a better rounded option.

I’m a bottom

Goddammit 🤦‍♂️

Thanks for the info, I probably would have never even looked at the white version otherwise.

These are a much needed replacement for the clicking fans in my nas lol

How are the bearings better in the white version?

Honestly I have not read much about the new max fans, I have a ton of 10+ year old p/f12s I would like to replace though.

It will depend on how many miles you ride in a week but waxing my chain has simplified my bike maintenance a ton. I only ride about 24km a day though, so it takes a bit to get to 300km and need to re-wax them.

I also ride my MTB in very sandy and gritty dirt, the wax sheds this off and improves the lifespan of my chain. I needed to constantly clean the cassette and chain when I was using “dry” lube. It definitely is a pain to re-wax, and it’s not a perfect solution for everyone, but if the dirt you ride is sticking to your chain/cassette, it’s the best I can recommend.

I would also recommend keeping your fork and/or rear suspension maintenanced professionally. I will sometimes do a 6 month service myself, but sending my fork in every 100hrs of use has kept it buttery smooth. Some shops will help get you the optimal performance for your body weight and riding style too, you’d be surprised how much speed can be gained with a tune.

Other than that, blead brakes if they’re hydraulic, check tires and sealant, and if you run carbon parts it’s always a good idea to check for cracks or rock strikes. Carbon is strong until it isn’t, and no one wants to end a race because of a broken part.

Sorry for the long ass comment, hope this at least helps