Good call for the early rest day, and kudos for fessing up to the badass photo (although in truth the whole journey and all the photos are actually badass). Nice report. Please write more while you wait for food - it feels like one of my trips and the story is almost as good as being there. Except the beers.
Cool cafe Also you are doing all this without suspension. I started a tour in Italy last year on my hardtail, but it was a bit punishing as the trails looked like yours. I’m going back in June. It taking my fully in touring-bike mode (tent on the front, drybag strapped below the saddle bag. I think it’ll be ok)( I just have to carry less)