My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I’m currently using.
My router is called Jupiter, everything connected to it is named after a moon. Callisto, Ganymede, Thelxinoe, Kallichore are what I’m currently using.
You can host a Firefox sync server yourself. You could run that on something like a Raspberry Pi in your local network. If you need remote access, use something like cloudflare tunnels (although I guess that’s something else to be paranoid about).
That’s why I don’t let every device decide individually. I know my router (FritzBox) prioritizes the pi-hole (it’s even called “preferred” and “alternative” DNS-Server in the UI)
I have my pi-hole setup as the upstream DNS in my router, with cloudflare as a secondary DNS. That way, all my devices always use the router for DNS (since that’s what is advertised in my DHCP) and the router then uses pi-hole if it’s available, or cloudflare if it isn’t. But the individual device doesn’t get to choose between different servers.
I’m guessing it’s about documenting the assembly of safety-critical components. If some part of, let’s say an airplane fails because a bolt comes loose, the manufacturer wants to have a paper trail attached to it to prove that this specific bolt was indeed torqued to the correct spec. Connecting the wrench to the network could make this documentation much easier.
Matlab
These brakes are single-pivot side-pull caliper brakes. They can work well, but only if they are well made - I personally never had much luck with Weinmann brakes.
For the rear brake, pretty much the only thing you can try is replacing the brake pads. The front ones don’t look very worn, but the rubber gets hard with age and loses its effectiveness.
The front brake looks broken beyond repair. The part I circeled red should be attached to the green part, but the connecting part seems to have broken off. You might be able to find a replacement, but I would recommend replacing the whole brake for a better one.
If that freehub is constructed like the ones I’ve taken apart before, you’re out of luck. Like you suspected, the teeth lock the rotation of the freehub to the hub, unless the screw in the back is taken out first.
You can try hammering in a (slightly larger) torx key or using an easy-out (probably won’t work if it’s very tight).
As a last resort, you could try to drill out the screw (only so far that the freehub comes off, you don’t want to drill into the hub). Then you should hopefully be left with enough left of screw to grab with a pipe wrench.